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The hoist is ordered. The delivery date is locked in. And then the install stops halfway through a Tuesday morning because the slab is the wrong spec, the power isn’t where the column needs it, or the truck can’t get close enough to unload 400 kg of steel.
None of that is a hoist problem. It’s a site readiness problem, and every one of these is avoidable with a walk around the bay a few weeks before delivery. Here’s the checklist we’d run through with you.
A two-post hoist transfers the entire weight of a vehicle into a handful of anchor bolts in your floor. The concrete has to be able to take that.
Four things to establish before anything is ordered:
If you’re not certain what’s under your floor, a core sample is cheap compared to relocating a hoist after the fact.
Where to find your numbers: the installation manual for each model is published on its product page under Resources. The MaxJax M7K page, for example, links its full installation manual. Download yours and read the site requirements section before you commit to a position on the floor.
Most workshop floors have some fall in them, usually deliberate, for drainage. A floor that looks flat can still be out enough to matter once a hoist’s arms reach out to the sides.
The critical direction is side to side, across the hoist, because that’s the direction the arms extend. Get a long straightedge and a level across the proposed column positions before delivery day, not on it.
Modest fall is correctable with shims during installation. Significant pitch is not — and there’s a limit past which shimming becomes the wrong answer and the floor needs attention first. We’ve covered exactly where that line sits, and why level contact pads matter more than perfectly plumb columns, in our guide to levelling a two-post hoist.
Measure to the lowest obstruction, not to the roof sheeting. Trusses, purlins, beams, lighting, ducting, sprinkler heads and the garage door track when it’s open are all part of your real ceiling height.
Then add the vehicle. A hoist that fits your shed doesn’t automatically give you full rise on a 4WD.
If you’re working out whether your building suits a full-size clearfloor two-post, we’ve put the measurements that actually matter — and the options if you come up short — in how much ceiling height you need for a 2-post hoist.
Two questions, and workshops routinely get caught on both.
What supply does the model need? It varies across the range. Portable and mid-rise units typically run on single phase — the QuickJack 6000TL, for instance, runs on 208–240 V AC single phase, 5 A minimum. Larger workshop hoists and heavy-vehicle equipment may require three phase. Confirm the requirement for your specific model, and confirm what you actually have available in the building — not what you think you have.
Where does it terminate? A supply that exists on the other side of the workshop is not a supply at the hoist. The power unit sits at a particular column, and the cable needs to reach it without crossing a walkway or a drive-through path.
Electrical connection must be carried out by a licensed electrician. Book them for the day after the mechanical install, not the same morning — installers and sparkies working around each other in one bay slows both down.
Hoist components are heavy and awkward. Individual columns on a portable MaxJax M7K weigh 136 kg each, and the standard model ships at 444 kg all up. Full-size workshop hoists are considerably heavier again.
Before delivery, confirm:
The job isn’t finished when the hoist goes up and down. Before it carries its first customer vehicle:
Slab, slope, height, power, access, commissioning. Six things, and every one of them can be confirmed weeks ahead of the truck arriving.
The workshops whose installs run to schedule aren’t lucky — they had the conversation early. If you’re planning a new bay or replacing an existing hoist, get in touch before you order. We ship, plan and install Australia-wide, and a ten-minute conversation about your floor and your power is the cheapest part of the whole project.